Does laminate flooring need grout?

Grout belongs to tile-and-stone work - it fills the gaps between individual ceramic, vitrified or stone pieces, locks them in place, and gives the surface its finished look between joints. Laminate works on a completely different principle. Each decorative laminate sheet is an unbroken 8×4 ft surface that gets glued onto a backing board with adhesive, so the visible face has no gaps or joints to fill. On most furniture, wardrobes, cabinet shutters and tabletops, a single sheet covers the whole face and the question of grout simply doesn't come up. On longer runs - a long kitchen back-splash, a stretched countertop, a full wall panel where two sheets have to meet - the joint is handled with PVC edge-banding, a thin metal or wood T-profile, a colour-matched silicone bead, or a tight butt-joint, again with no grout involved.
What laminate DOES depend on is the adhesive that bonds it to the substrate - and the right adhesive depends on the laminate type.
For decorative laminate (1 mm HPL - the standard paper-and-resin sheet) use a solvent-based contact adhesive. The everyday workhorse in Indian carpentry shops is Fevicol SR 998. Fevicol Marine SR is the upgrade for moisture-prone areas like kitchens, bathrooms and balcony cabinets. Pidilite SR is a reliable alternative of the same family. Application is the same in each case: coat both the back of the laminate AND the substrate evenly with adhesive, let it flash off for 15–20 minutes until tacky (press a finger lightly - no glue transfer means it's ready), then mate the surfaces. The bond forms on contact and is permanent, so positioning has to be right the first time (dowels or batons help). No clamping or curing wait is needed.

For acrylic laminate (3–8 mm solid acrylic resin sheets) standard SR 998 isn't ideal - acrylic sheets are heavier, smoother and more prone to debonding under stress, especially on shutter fronts that take repeated opening and closing. Use a stronger system: Fevicol SR 505 (a high-grip contact adhesive), Fevicol Heatx if the surface sees heat (kitchen near the stove), or - for the most reliable long-term structural hold - a 2-component PU (polyurethane) adhesive. Many premium acrylic brands (Greenlam, Merino, Royale Touche, Stylam, Aica, etc.) also specify or supply their own branded adhesive - when they do, use it.
A few quick rules that apply across both: always coat BOTH surfaces, never just one; do NOT use Fevicol SH (white PVA glue) for laminating - it's a furniture glue, not a laminate glue, and the bond will fail; for PVC laminates, switch to a PU-based or PVC-specific adhesive, since contact cement doesn't bond well to PVC; and work in a well-ventilated area, because solvent-based and PU adhesives have strong fumes.